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put the porcini in a heatproof bowl and pour over boiling water to cover. preheat the oven to 190c. bring a large pan of water to the boil. grease a 20cm cake tin with a little butter and line with baking parchment. heat the butter and 2 tbsp oil in a very large pan. add the onion and thyme leaves and fry very gently for 8 mins, stirring now and then, until the onion is soft and translucent. while the onion is cooking, cook the chard leaves in the boiling water for 2 mins. drain, plunge into cold water to stop the cooking process and keep the colour, then drain again. squeeze out any excess liquid with your hands. add the garlic to the onion and cook for 2 mins. add the fresh mushrooms and fry for another 2 mins. add the marsala and cook until the liquid has evaporated. put half in a food processor. blitz until pureed. mix in a large bowl with the (drained) porcini. finely chop the chard leaves and stir in with the cream, eggs, cheese, breadcrumbs and season with salt and pepper. transfer to the tin. bake for 35-40 mins, until set and golden.
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King of mushrooms dried — risotto, ragu, cream sauces, broth
Prized dried morels — cream sauces, pasta, spring dishes, stuffing
Dried golden chanterelles — risotto, cream sauces, eggs, omelets
Dried black trumpets — truffle-like flavor, pasta, risotto, cream
Concentrated umami — rehydrate for stir-fries, dashi, braises