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In a large saucepan or high-sided pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic, leeks, celery, and thyme and saute for 2 minutes. Arrange the fish bones on top of the vegetables in an even layer, cover, and reduce the heat to medium. Cook until the bones become opaque, 5 to 6 minutes. Raise the heat to high, add the stock and wine, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat slightly and simmer until 1 1/2 cups of liquid remain, about 30 minutes. Strain through a fine strainer, pushing down on the solids. Pour the strained liquid into a clean saucepan and reduce over medium high heat until slightly syrupy, 10 to 12 minutes. Strain through a chinois or fine strainer. Taste and season. It will taste strong and salty and probably will need pepper only. Variation: For delicate fish, lighten the sauce with a little Basil Oil.
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Ruby port — cheese pairing, reductions, poaching pears
Portuguese fortified wine — sauces, reductions, mushroom duxelles
Dry Fino sherry — deglazing, cream sherry sauce, shrimp scampi
Sicilian fortified wine — chicken Marsala, zabaglione, tiramisu
Ready-made guajillo sauce — enchiladas, chilaquiles, braising